Exploring the Canadian Rockies: A 16-Day Adventure through Banff, Jasper & Beyond
There’s a reason the Canadian Rockies is on almost every travel bucket list — and after going myself, I totally get it!
There’s a reason the Canadian Rockies are on almost every travel bucket list — and after going myself, I totally get it.
From the aquamarine lakes and snowy peaks to the endless hiking trails and wildlife encounters, it was one of the most grounding and exhilarating experiences I’ve had. What follows is my honest, unfiltered 16-day itinerary travelling through Alberta and British Columbia, with tips on food, gear, movement, and mindset.
Whether you're planning a visit, or want to mentally escape into the mountains, this is for you.
Why the Canadian Rockies?
Oldest National Park: Banff National Park is Canada’s first and the third-oldest in the world.
Lakes like no other: Lake Louise and Moraine Lake get their turquoise colour from glacial rock flour.
World-class stargazing: Jasper National Park is the largest accessible Dark Sky Preserve on Earth.
Things I wish I knew before going:
Book shuttles early: For places like Lake Louise and Moraine Lake, you must book shuttles months in advance.
Weather changes hourly: Even in June, snowstorms can pop up. Layer well and be ready for all seasons in a day.
You need a car: Public transport is limited. For flexibility and reaching the remote trails, a rental is a must.
Yes, you need bear spray: And you should carry it in your hand, not buried in a bag. Especially when hiking lesser-known trails.
What you’ll find in this post:
Day-by-day breakdowns from Banff, Jasper, Golden and Canmore
Hidden gem tips and popular sites that are worth the hype
Honest food reviews (as a nutrition coach, you know I’m looking for balance!)
Personal mindset reflections from hiking solo to managing weather letdowns
Practical tips on what to pack, what to prep, and how to make the most of each stop
Not just a holiday
This wasn’t just a sightseeing trip. It was a reminder to stay curious. To lean into nature, connection, challenge and flexibility — values I bring into my everyday life and coaching.
From waking up at 4.30am to watch the mornin sun at Lake Louise, to soaking sore feet in a hot tub after a surprise snowfall, each day asked something different of me. And I left Canada with more than photos and step counts. I left with clarity, pride and a sense of spaciousness I didn’t know I needed.
Here’s a quick snapshot:
Rather than squeeze it all in here, I’ve broken the itinerary into individual posts by day for ease of reading. Here’s what you can explore:
| Day(s) | Location | Key Activities | Stay |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1–3 | Calgary, Banff, Canmore | Downtown Banff, Bow River, Lake Minnewanka, Lake Louise, Moraine Lake | Airbnb in Canmore |
| 4–7 | Jasper, Mount Robson (British Colombia) | Icefields Parkway, Whistlers Mountain, Maligne Road, Lakes, Athabasca River | Jasper Lodge |
| 8–10 | Golden | Yoho National Park, Emerald Lake, Wapta Falls, Takakkaw Falls, Johnston's Canyon | Local AirBnB |
| 11 | Calgary, Banff | City wander | Hotel |
| 12–15 | Dead Man’s Flats | Lake Helen, Fairmont Hotel, Kanasakis, Ha Ling, Grassi Lakes, Canmore Downtown | AirBnb |
Day 1 & 2: Calgary > Banff > Canmore
What we did:
We arrived in Calgary around 7pm and headed straight to our hotel. After a long flight, we walked to a nearby hotel bistro for dinner — nothing fancy, but exactly what we needed to kick off the trip.
The next morning, it was game time: we picked up our hire car, stocked up on snacks from Walmart, and grabbed bear spray from Canadian Tire (tip: wait and buy this in Banff — it’s cheaper and more accessible at outdoor shops there).
From Calgary, we drove into Banff National Park, soaking up every kilometre of scenery as we made our way into the mountains. In downtown Banff, we wandered the village-style shops and grabbed lunch, then headed to the Bow Falls lookout and took a short walk down to the Bow River. The views were stunning and the turquoise water was surreal — that classic Rockies blue!
Later in the afternoon, we visited Lake Minnewanka, one of the only lakes in the park where motorised boats are allowed. You can take lake cruises, rent kayaks or canoes in the summer, or explore the area on foot. We walked along the ancient Indigenous trails before continuing to Two Jack Lake, a peaceful little spot with unreal reflections and far fewer crowds.
This was also my first time driving on the right-hand side of the road — and it went surprisingly well! After settling into our stunning Airbnb in Canmore (with a balcony view of the Three Sisters mountains!), we strolled into town for a light shared dinner and a much-needed early night.
Driving & travel notes:
Canadians drive on the right, and most car hire companies accept Australian licences.
If your licence isn’t in English or you're staying more than a few months, bring an International Driving Permit (IDP).
Parking in Banff and Jasper is usually free and well-signed, but plan to use shuttles or start very early for popular spots like Lake Louise and Moraine Lake (which now requires Parks Canada shuttle access only during peak season).
Ask for all-season or snow tyres based on the month you're visiting.
There’s also limited mobile reception once you enter the national parks — download offline maps!
Where we ate:
The evening we got in, we wanted something light and didn’t realise what you order isn’t always what it seems! I ordered some beef nachos and the plate was HUGE!!
In the morning we ate breakfast at the Calgary airport hotel, I DIY’d a bacon and egg muffin, grabbed a Greek yoghurt for a little later, and of course a coffee. Look, coffee is definitely a lot different here than what we’re used to in Melbiourne, Australia, but I’m here for the ride (and the caffeine!). After a lot of plane food the day before, I wanted to reset and enjoy better food once we were in the mountains.
Lunch was at Tooloulou’s – a Southern Louisana diner in the Banff town centre. I ordered the chicken fried steak (a seasoned beef minute steak, battered and fried) with peppercorn gravy, cheesy garlic grits, and Cajun slaw. I also tried their crocodile bites! Safe to say we got our protein in this meal.
Dinner was light, we shared a flatbread pizza between three of us at The Social in Canmore, plus a glass of red wine. Not a high-protein meal, but we weren’t that hungry — it was the perfect way to wind down after a big day.
What I packed or prepped:
We picked up fresh berries (blueberries and strawberries) from Walmart — easy, hydrating, fibre-rich snacks for the car and throughout the day.
Movement:
No formal exercise today, just plenty of light movement — walking along the Bow River lookouts and exploring each spot at a relaxed pace.
Mindset moment:
Part of me wanted more protein at dinner — the other part realised I wasn’t actually hungry. Two small slices of veggie flatbread with pumpkin, spinach and cheese were more than enough. It was satisfying, light, and a good veggie boost. Sometimes, listening to your body wins over food rules.
Day 3: Lake Louise and Moraine Lake
What we did:
We set the alarm for 4:30am to catch the 6am Parks Canada shuttle from Banff to Lake Louise. We were staying in Canmore (about 15 minutes away), so we drove in and parked at the free lot by the Banff Train Station, then walked over to the bus depot. Even with time to spare, it was already starting to buzz with early risers — if you're planning to visit in peak season, booking your shuttle spot in advance is a must.
Lake Louise at sunrise? Breathtaking. The water was calm, the light golden, and the mountains still capped with snow. We started walking along the lake’s edge and realised this connected to the Lake Agnes Tea House trail, so we had a protein bar and decided to tackle it.
The hike to Lake Agnes was a steady climb with sweeping views. Watching Lake Louise shrink behind us as we climbed higher was pure magic.
The Tea House itself? A bit underwhelming. It’s cash only, often crowded, and on this day they had no power, so no hot food or drinks available. Also worth noting — there are no toilets past the lakefront, so definitely go before you begin the trail.
After the hike, we circled back for a drink and light bite at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise — an absolute must with those stunning views, and a great way to unwind before heading to our next bucket list stop: Moraine Lake.
Now closed to public vehicles (as of 2023), Moraine Lake can only be accessed via Parks Canada shuttles, Roam Transit or guided tours. But it’s 100% worth the effort — the colour of the lake, the towering peaks, and that glacial water are jaw-dropping. If you're after the iconic photo, take the short rockpile trail to the top — it's just a five-minute climb for the best view in the house. We even saw a couple taking wedding photos there — what a backdrop!
We ended the day with dinner in downtown Banff, buzzing from the hike, the views, and the fact that Canada had already delivered so much — and it was only day three!
Where we ate:
I started the day with yoghurt and berries — quick, light and gave me a protein and fibre kick. During the Lake Louise hike I pulled out a protein bar, which tied me over until the Tea House (we shared a tuna sandwich and a slice of cake there).
Lunch was at the Louiza restaurant inside the Fairmont — highly recommend. It wasn’t pretentious at all, and the view? Unreal. We shared a charred beef and lamb kebab plate, saving room for a proper meal later.
And that dinner? A highlight. We ate at Lupo’s in downtown Banff — mortadella and pistachio pizza plus half a chicken parmigiana. It was huge, delicious, and so satisfying. We left buzzing.
What I packed or prepped:
This was a full hike day, so I wore my hiking pack with a hydration bladder, protein bars, an emergency kit, extra layers, and of course bear spray. The weather can change quickly at altitude, so always pack smart — even on short trails.
Movement:
The Lake Agnes Tea House Trail was around 2.5 hours up and 1.5 hours down, with plenty of incline. It’s a well-marked path but can be busy, so go early. Moraine Lake offered more chilled movement — a flat walk along the lake and the quick rockpile climb. All up, a huge day for steps and elevation! By dinner, we were absolutely ready to sit down!
Mindset moment:
Today was big. The scenery was next level, the kind of day where you almost forget to stop and eat. We probably could’ve fuelled more during the day, but we made do and stayed flexible. And honestly, we enjoyed every bite of that dinner — no guilt, just hunger, joy and satisfaction. It also gave me a great chance to chat with my sister about why meals like pizza aren’t bad — especially after a day like that.
Here’s a few extra photos I shared on my Instagram.
Day 4: Icefields Parkway
What we did:
We left Canmore bright and early after a quick breakfast stop in Lake Louise and officially hit the Icefields Parkway — one of the most iconic and scenic drives in the world. It’s about 230km of pure Canadian beauty: glacial lakes, snow-dusted peaks, waterfalls, and frequent wildlife sightings. It’s honestly hard to put into words just how stunning this stretch is.
Check out my reel so you can see it in action!
We stopped at
▪️ Herbert Lake
▪️ Bow Lake
▪️ Peyto Lake
▪️ Waterfowl Lakes
▪️ Mistaya Canyon
▪️ Saskatchewan River Crossing
▪️ Columbia Icefield / Athabasca Glacier
Each stop had its own vibe — some quiet and moody, others bright and icy blue. We even saw two black bears on the side of the road! (Reminder: stay in your car, don’t feed them, and never approach wildlife, no matter how many others are pulled over.)
The weather was classic Rockies: four seasons in one day. Thankfully we had our day bags handy so we could easily layer up or down depending on the conditions.
We arrived at the Athabasca Glacier around 6:30pm. Even just viewing it from the edge is incredible. Worth noting — you can’t safely walk on the glacier without a guide, and sadly a lot of people still attempt it, unaware of the danger. The surface hides deep crevasses that can collapse underfoot.
As we neared Jasper (around 7:30pm), the mood shifted — we passed through parts of the park impacted by last year’s wildfires. A haunting, sobering sight that put the day’s beauty in perspective.
Travel tip:
There’s no mobile reception for most of the Parkway. Make sure to download offline maps, bring snacks, and fill your tank before leaving Lake Louise or Jasper. There’s a petrol station at Saskatchewan Crossing, but prices are steep and it’s your only option mid-route.
Where we ate:
I started the day with an omelette at Bill Peyto’s Café in Lake Louise. (Side note — Canadians really love their breakfast potatoes. You’ll find them everywhere.)
Lunch (or early dinner, really) was at Altitude across from the Athabasca Glacier. I had the seafood chowder and a glass of red — warm, hearty and paired with a killer glacier view.
By the time we made it to Earl’s in Jasper around 9:30pm, I was more in the mood for dessert than another meal. I skipped dinner and went for a slice of cheesecake and a cocktail, because that’s balance, right? I love how they kick off their happy hour again from 9pm until close, very smart because the place was a vibe!
What I packed or prepped:
We had everything packed in the car, so that made the day seamless. I had some fresh fruit with me, plus some novelty-flavoured Pringles we picked up (you’ve got to try the local snack aisle wherever you travel!).
Movement:
There was a lot of driving today, but we got movement in between at each stop — some walks were short, some a bit longer. It was great to stretch our legs and explore every time we pulled over.
Mindset moment:
The full Icefields Parkway can be driven in about 3.5 hours without stops — but what’s the point of that? This day reminded me how important it is to move slow, stay curious, and embrace the moments in between. Did I hit my usual protein target? Nope. Did I sit more than usual? Yep. But I also soaked in glacial air, spotted wild bears, and let myself say “yes” to cheesecake instead of stressing about another meal. That’s real balance — and exactly the kind of flexibility I teach and practise.
Day 5: Jasper & Maligne Lake Road
What we did:
We had a little sleep-in today — by this point in the trip, the long days and early starts were starting to catch up with us. Plus, the weather wasn’t on our side, so we decided to lean into a slower pace.
We headed to Bear’s Paw Bakery for breakfast and wandered around Jasper township, ducking in and out of shops to avoid the rain. It’s always fascinating spotting little differences when you travel — in Jasper, it was all the houses with basements, which aren’t a thing back home in Australia!
Later, we drove to Edith Lake and Annette Lake, and then stretched our legs around Lake Beauvert, which wraps around the beautiful Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. It’s a peaceful spot, even in the rain, though the scars from last year’s wildfires are still visible along the tree line.
In the afternoon, we decided to brave the weather and head out along Maligne Lake Road, known as one of the best places in Canada to spot moose and black bears. The road itself is a stunning drive, winding through dense forest with plenty of scenic turnouts,— but do check ahead, as it’s often closed during early spring and late autumn due to snow and avalanche risk.
Sure enough, we hit a wildlife traffic jam — always a sign something exciting is ahead. A black bear was foraging near the trees, and while it was incredible to see, it’s worth saying: stay in your car, never feed or approach wildlife, and give them the respect they deserve. It’s wild for a reason.
Maligne Canyon was closed due to fire damage, but we walked the Moose Lake Loop Trail instead — and it was magic. The rain didn’t let up, but we spotted a moose (yes, an actual moose!) right on the track, plus a few cheeky chipmunks. Maligne Lake and Moose Lake are some of the top spots in Jasper National Park for moose sightings — so keep your eyes open and your camera ready.
After a big few days, we were ready to wind down. We headed back into town for dinner and called it a night — wet, content, and still buzzing from seeing some of Canada’s most iconic wildlife in the wild.
Where we ate:
Breakfast was at Bear Paw’s Bakery — clearly a local favourite, with a line out the door. I grabbed a mini cinnamon bun, a savoury scroll, and a coffee. Honestly? Not my best food day. I definitely felt the dip in energy and noticed how much I missed having a solid protein hit to start the day.
We unintentionally skipped lunch (oops), but we did get back in time for an early dinner at The Raven Bistro. I ordered a burger and sweet potato chips, it hit the spot!
What I packed or prepped:
I took my backpack on the Moose Lake Loop hike — bear spray was glued to my side. With all the rain, we didn’t need much else besides a good raincoat and water.
Movement:
It was a slower start with a gentle town stroll, but we clocked in about 2.5km on the Moose Lake walk, which totally scratched the movement itch. It rained the entire time, but that’s what raincoats are for, right?!
Mindset moment:
I used to let my mood be completely dictated by the weather. But when you’re on holiday and time is limited, you don’t want to waste it. You get out there — in the rain, in the mist — and it’s fine. Sometimes it’s even better. Today reminded me that you can still have a great day when things don’t go to plan.
Day 6: Jasper SkyTram & Whistlers Mountain
What we did:
Today was an absolute highlight — the kind of experience that stays with you long after the trip ends.
We booked the 11am Jasper SkyTram, the highest and longest aerial tramway in Canada, which climbs to 2,263 metres above sea level in under 10 minutes. From the top station, you can access Whistlers Mountain, with panoramic views of six mountain ranges, glacial rivers and even Mount Robson in the distance on a clear day.
📍 Tip: Pre-book your SkyTram tickets online — they do sell out, especially in summer. And don’t be fooled by mild temps in Jasper town; it’s significantly colder at the summit, even in summer. Dress for wind and snow.
We had planned to summit the true peak of Whistlers Mountain, but the upper section was still snow-covered. My boots didn’t quite cut it, so I opted for the false summit, which still delivered jaw-dropping views. No regrets.
This was also my first proper use of hiking poles, and I’m a convert — they made the inclines smoother and eased pressure on my knees. Highly recommend them for steeper or uneven terrain.
After soaking in the views, we had lunch at the Summit Café, took the tram back down, and later drove to the Athabasca River for a short, peaceful 30-minute walk to a lookout.
We were pretty wiped out by evening, but rallied for dinner — we wanted to catch the Edmonton Oilers game, their first Stanley Cup Finals appearance since 1993. I can’t say I understood all the rules, but the town was buzzing and it was fun to be part of it.
Extra notes about the Jasper SkyTram:
Jasper SkyTram is open seasonally from mid-May to mid-October.
Bring warm layers, even in summer — the temperature drops 10–15°C between the base and the summit.
The trail to the true summit is about 1.2km one-way from the tram station, but can be icy or snowy even in July.
Hiking poles are a game-changer for Whistlers — bring or rent them in town.
Bring water — there’s no potable water at the top station.
Where we ate:
Breakfast was at LouLou’s Diner, where I had an omelette (yep — with a side of potatoes again). I was happy to load up knowing we had a big active day ahead.
Lunch was at the Summit Café at Whistlers — we shared a brisket burger, and in hindsight… should’ve gotten my own!
Dinner was at Montana’s, where I went all in on their 12-hour slow-smoked brisket burger. The flavour combo was insane — so satisfying after a full day on our feet.
What I packed or prepped:
I learned my lesson from hiking the Dolomites — I was prepared. Ski gloves, beanie, three layers, hiking boots, sticks, water, protein bars, emergency kit, raincoat — I had it all.
Meanwhile… Riki wore shorts! I warned him, but he was convinced he’d be fine. Let’s just say he ended up borrowing my spare gloves.
Movement:
A huge movement day. Even though the SkyTram takes you most of the way up, the climb to either summit is no joke. The air is thinner, the trail is steep, and the wind? Brutal. But every step felt worth it. We ended the day with a walk along the Athabasca River, which helped the legs recover after the elevation, though we did go up quite a few flights of stairs there too!
Mindset moment:
When you think you can’t do any more, it’s wild how your body still finds a way to keep going. The path looked steep — but every step took me closer to the view. A good reminder that sometimes the hardest climbs give you the best perspective.
Day 7: Day trip to Mount Robson, British Colombia
What we did:
Today we ventured out of Jasper and crossed into British Columbia to visit Mount Robson — the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies at 3,954 metres. It’s part of Mount Robson Provincial Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and BC’s oldest protected area. The drive itself is worth it, with mountain views the entire way.
We hiked the trail to Kinney Lake, which follows a gushing river stream through the valley. It’s the most accessible part of the longer Berg Lake Trail and a great option if you're not ready to commit to a full-day or overnight hike. It’s peaceful, scenic, and not overly challenging — a gentle out-and-back route with breathtaking alpine views and plenty of spots to stop and take it all in.
It was also my sister’s birthday — and thanks to the time zone change, she technically got an extra hour of celebration! Our guesthouse hosts surprised us with a birthday cake, which was such a thoughtful touch.
We got back to Jasper around 6pm, and with the balmy breeze, I caught a second wind. I went out for a solo walk before finding Rose and Riki in the hot tub. I soaked my feet until we were kicked out at 10pm — we were all ready for an early night.
Where we ate:
This was a bit of a strange food day. We started with a grab-and-go bacon and egg muffin from A&W, nothing special, but enough fuel to get us going for the hike. A&W is one of Canada’s most common fast food chains, and while it's not my top pick for nutrition, sometimes convenience wins.
After the walk, we had lunch at the Mount Robson Visitor Centre café, where I grabbed a turkey and cranberry sandwich. They also have washrooms, souvenirs, and outdoor seating with views of the peak on a clear day, so it’s a great rest stop if you're in the area.
Back at our stay in Jasper, we were surprised with a birthday cake for Rose — such a sweet gesture from our guesthouse hosts. After that, none of us felt like dinner, so we called it a night!
What I packed or prepped:
My backpack came with me again today — and it paid off. Rose and Riki were both feeling a bit sore, so my muscle balm and collapsible water bottle (such a good Amazon find!) got passed around. Bear spray stayed packed but thankfully wasn’t needed. The Kinney Lake trail is popular enough that you’ll likely see other hikers, but it’s still smart to come prepared, especially as you’re crossing provincial park boundaries and there’s limited signal.
Movement:
Another solid day on the movement front! The Kinney Lake trail is about 9km return, and while not overly strenuous, it gave us a great active start to the day. Once back in Jasper, I went out for a solo evening walk, bringing my total to 24,000 steps — not bad for a “rest day.” The hot tub soak back at our stay? Absolute bliss.
Mindset moment:
It’s okay to be alone. When you’re travelling with others, it’s easy to feel like you always have to be “on” or do everything together. But giving yourself permission to step away — even for a short solo walk — can be incredibly grounding. You tune into your surroundings differently. You think more clearly. And you realise that you’re okay, even in the quiet. It’s a small moment of growth I really value, and something I’ll try to hold onto.
Day 8: Jasper, Icefields Parkway, Golden
What we did:
Our final morning in Jasper started with a peaceful drive out to Pyramid Lake and Patricia Lake — calm, quiet, and so still that early in the morning. The reflections on the water were magic. We took it slow, soaking in the silence before heading back into town for breakfast.
After that, it was time to head south along the Icefields Parkway again, ticking off the last few stops we missed on the way up. This stretch of road is honestly something else — if you can, plan to drive it both ways. The light, the views, and the weather can change dramatically and give you a whole new experience.
First stop: Athabasca Falls. Absolutely incredible. The sheer power and force of the water were mesmerising — it’s one of those moments where you stop and just stare. The short path is very accessible, with multiple viewing platforms.
Next: Sunwapta Falls. Still beautiful, but admittedly a little underwhelming after Athabasca. Worth the quick stop though, especially if it’s your first time.
Then we pulled into Mistaya Canyon for a short walk down to a dramatic limestone canyon carved by glacial meltwater — definitely worth the effort, just watch your footing near the ledges.
And finally, we circled back to Peyto Lake. Riki was keen to revisit since we’d been rained out the first time — and I’m so glad we did. The clouds cleared just enough, and with fewer people around, it felt moody and magical in a completely different way.
From there, we continued on to Golden, British Columbia, where we’d stay for the night. It was a long day and we didn’t get in until close to 8:30pm, but we managed to squeeze in a hearty dinner before checking into what turned out to be the most beautiful Airbnb of the whole trip.
Where we ate:
Breakfast was at Papa George’s in Jasper — no surprise, I had the omelette (and yes, it came with potatoes — the Canadian classic!).
We made a quick stop at the Athabasca Falls Lodge café for a coffee and a stretch, but weirdly none of us were hungry throughout the day, so we held out until dinner.
In Golden, we ate at The Wolf’s Den, I went all in with a bison and beef burger, which came with a surprise side of soup (not what I expected, but weirdly it worked). It was huge, but delicious, and hit the spot after a long day on the road.
What I packed or prepped:
Since it was mostly a driving day, this one was easy. I kept water and a few stone fruits in the car to boost our fibre intake and keep us going. Bear spray was still within reach on every walk — that stayed non-negotiable on every stop.
Movement:
Not our most active day, but we made sure to get out and walk at every stop — Athabasca Falls, Sunwapta, Mistaya, and Peyto Lake gave us plenty of reasons to stretch the legs. Nothing strenuous, but we got the steps in and kept moving.
Mindset moment:
Today reminded me that not every day has to be intense or full of big effort to be valuable. We didn’t rush, didn’t cram, we just flowed. Sometimes, having space in your day to soak it in is the magic. And after a full-on week of hikes, early mornings, and go-go-go moments, letting things be a little quieter — enjoying the views, stopping for coffee, wandering without pressure — felt like exactly what we needed.
Day 9: Wapta Falls, Emerald Lake, Takakkaw Falls (Yoho National Park, British Colombia)
What we did:
We started the day with a quick bite and coffee, then hit the road toward Wapta Falls — a 2.4km forested walk each way, with an optional steep trail leading down to the base of the falls. Highly recommend doing it! Pro tip: as you approach the fork for the descent, skip the first track and walk a little further to take the second one — it’s much less steep and easier on the knees.
Next stop was the iconic Emerald Lake, known for its stunning turquoise water. Just a heads up — parking can be tricky, especially in peak hours, but it’s usually fine to park along the highway. We wandered the lake edge and took in the scenery before having lunch at the lodge near the entrance.
From there, we drove to Takakkaw Falls, which ended up being one of my top highlights of the day. It’s the second-highest waterfall in Canada at 373 metres!, and the sound and force of the water are absolutely breathtaking. As you get closer, you start to feel the mist on your face — I got very princessy here and borrowed Rose’s hat to protect my hair. Worth it. The short walk to the base makes this one of the most accessible, high-impact spots in the Rockies.
Also, side note: the word “Takakkaw” means “magnificent” in Cree.
Note: RV access is restricted to the road leading to Takakkaw Falls due to the tight switchbacks.
We wrapped the day with a light dinner back in Golden and decided to make the most of our beautiful AirBnB for our final night — snapping a few pics for my website and ebooks, of course!
Where we ate:
Breakfast was a quick stop at Tim Hortons. To be honest, I wasn’t impressed. Protein options were minimal — I grabbed their egg white bites, which were only about 140 calories and definitely not enough to fuel a big movement day. What shocked me more? A tub of their doughnut balls (Timbits) came in at over 2400 calories — that’s not a snack!
Lunch was at Cilantro on the Lake at Emerald Lake Lodge. While the menu is a little pricey, the view and vibe made up for it. We shared a pizza and some poutine — when in Canada, right?
Dinner was at Turning Point in Golden. I kept it light with a serve of calamari to get a bit of protein in without overdoing it.
What I packed or prepped:
We kept things simple today. I didn’t bring my full backpack down to Wapta Falls, but I did carry bear spray (you just never know). In the car, I kept a couple of stone fruits and protein bars handy for snacks between stops.
Movement:
Today was a solid movement day without being too intense. The Wapta Falls trail gave us a nice dose of activity with some incline, and the other two waterfall spots were gentler. All up, we were on our feet plenty and ticking those movement boxes.
Mindset moment:
Today reminded me that impact doesn’t always equal intensity. The scenery we saw was some of the most powerful and moving of the whole trip — and yet the effort to reach it was relatively light. It’s a good parallel for life: not everything that moves you has to push you to your limits. Sometimes, it’s the balance of ease, beauty, and simplicity that leaves the biggest impression.
Day 10: Golden, Natural Bridge, Johnston Canyon, Banff Downtown, Calgary
What we did:
The weather turned today, so we took things slow. We wandered around Golden in the morning and found a delicious little café for breakfast (shoutout to our AirBnB host for the recommendation — it always pays to ask the locals!).
There was a farmer’s market in town, and I picked up some local honey and a mushroom tincture blend from a small-scale farmer in BC, I love supporting local where we can.
After checking out of our AirBnB, we made a quick stop at the Natural Bridge in Yoho National Park. It’s a short and accessible site, but a beautiful example of how water can carve through rock over time — nature's slow persistence on full display.
We then drove toward Banff and stopped at Johnston Canyon. Right as we started the trail, the rain kicked in, and I was kicking myself for not bringing my raincoat! Johnston Canyon is an easy walk and has a catwalk-style boardwalk, which makes it highly accessible but I’d recommend wearing shoes that have grip because it could get slippery otherwise.
We walked up to the Upper Falls, but I have to be honest — it was packed. The line to get a photo of the falls was long, and while the track was beautiful, it reminded me why I often prefer the lesser-known spots. It’s moments like these that highlight just how curated travel can be — on social media especially (my own content included).
We skipped the Lower Falls after seeing the line-up and headed back down, slightly soggy but happy we’d made the stop. If time allows, you could also continue up to the Ink Pots as as an additional add-on hike from the Upper Falls of the canyon.
We ended the day back in downtown Banff, craving something warm and hearty. We grabbed a bowl of pho, followed by a sneaky ice cream (it was worth it), before making the drive back to Calgary. The others were flying to San Diego the next day, and I was catching up with a girlfriend who was driving up to meet me the next day.
Where we ate:
Breakfast was at Ethos Café in Golden — a new spot with serious Melbourne brunch energy. I had the perfect coffee, a bacon and egg bun, and couldn’t resist a pistachio doughnut from their pastry cabinet after the market stroll. So good!
Lunch was pho in Banff — I ordered mine with beef and prawns to get a solid protein kick, and it was super satisfying. I skipped dinner afterward, but couldn’t say no to ice cream from one of the local spots while we were still in Banff. Worth every mouthful.
What I packed or prepped:
It was a pretty chill day pack-wise. I carried a bottle of water, and that was enough. Johnston Canyon was crowded, so I actually left the bear spray in the car this time. (If you’re hiking during peak hours on a heavily trafficked track, this is usually okay — but always use your judgement.)
Movement:
We got in some good movement today — the Johnston Canyon trail is well-paved with some modest inclines. The rain made it a little slippery in places, but overall it was an easy walk with just enough effort to feel good.
Mindset moment:
Today reminded me how important it is to balance expectation with experience. I’d seen so many polished photos of Johnston Canyon — but in real life, it was rainy, crowded, and kind of chaotic. Still beautiful, but different. Not worse — just real. Travel isn’t always picture-perfect, and that’s okay. It’s a great reminder in both life and nutrition: you can enjoy the experience even when it doesn’t match the aesthetic.
Day 11: Calgary, Dead Man’s Flats, Banff
What we did:
Today I said goodbye to Rose and Riki as they flew out, and I had a solo day ahead. After checking out of our hotel and leaving my bags with concierge, I grabbed an Uber to 17 Ave SW, a trendy little pocket of Calgary I’d researched the night before. I was on a mission to find good matcha, and Philosofy Café did not disappoint. Their menu was mostly pastries, so I asked the owner for a brunch rec, and he sent me off to Maven, which ended up being fantastic.
I wandered the area for a bit, poking into boutique stores and health supplement shops to check out what Canadian brands were on the shelves. (Always fun to see what’s trending elsewhere!) I also got my nails done — much needed after all the luggage dragging and rock scrambling over the past ten days.
From there, I headed to Calgary Tower, which is a popular landmark — though admittedly, I didn’t feel pulled to go up. Instead, I walked toward the riverfront, taking a few detours when my GPS wanted me to go through some sketchy underpasses — pro tip, always trust your gut when something feels off.
I eventually found my way to Reader Rock Garden, a historic botanical garden just outside the city centre. I had pinned it earlier after my Uber driver recommended the café there. I arrived just in time to enjoy a drink on the balcony before they closed — such a peaceful little spot away from the city noise.
Soon after, my friend Celene arrived — we met last year on a Vanlife trip in Norway, and she drove seven hours from Saskatoon to catch up. We stocked up on snacks at Costco, then headed back toward Dead Man’s Flats, where we were staying for the final leg. That evening we had dinner in Banff — and made the most of our last night with a valid National Park Pass before Parks Canada temporarily waived fees for the summer (an initiative a lot of locals seemed a bit sceptical about!).
Where we ate:
Matcha: Philosofy Café (so good — lived up to the hype).
Brunch: Maven — I had their signature Lima Eggs Benedict with sauces on the side (always my go-to move).
Afternoon drink: Reader’s Café at the Rock Garden — lovely outlook, worth visiting even if just for a quiet moment.
Dinner: Hello Sunshine in Banff. Celene was craving Japanese, so we went in on sushi and miso soup (with plenty of leftovers to take home).
What I packed or prepped:
Today was blissfully low-maintenance. I left my bags with the hotel concierge and spent the day with just my handbag and water bottle. Highly recommend this if you’ve got a gap between check-out and your next destination — it made the whole day feel light and spontaneous.
Movement:
I walked and walked and walked today, I enjoy it a lot and got to see little nooks and crannies of the city this way too. I ended the day on over 20k steps just from intentional and incidental movement.
Mindset moment:
Solo travel always brings me back to this truth: you don’t need a big plan to have a full day. Wandering, sitting quietly, choosing food intentionally, listening to your gut (literally and emotionally) — these are underrated joys. It’s easy to think every day has to be packed with hikes, sights, or “bucket list” stuff. But today was a great reminder that being present and curious is enough to fill your cup.
Day 12: Helen Lake, Canmore
What we did:
The weather wasn’t on our side today, but we decided to brave the hike to Helen Lake, a moderate trail located along the Icefields Parkway just past Bow Lake, and apparently is one of Banff’s top-rated wildflower hikes in July.
Rugged up in all the layers and essentials, we noticed very few cars in the lot — always a sign to stay alert. About halfway up, we spotted what looked like animal prints in the mud. After some deliberation (and a moment of gut-check panic), we turned back — only to run into two girls heading up the same way who weren’t concerned. Then another group of four arrived, completely unfazed, so we decided to go for it and finish the trail.
We didn’t run into any bears on the track, but later that afternoon, we saw one from the highway — safe in the car, thankfully! It was a long hike, especially on the descent, where the slippery terrain made it a bit more technical than expected. But we made it down safely and headed back to Canmore to get ready for Celene’s birthday dinner (her actual birthday was the next day), and the night turned into one of our favourites.
Where we ate:
Breakfast: We started the day with a protein shake, thanks to Celene who brought her blender and powder — a solid move but in hindsight, not quite enough fuel for a 12km hike.
Snacks on the trail: We packed beef jerky and protein bars, which came in clutch at the halfway point.
Dinner: We went all in at Ankor, a beautiful restaurant in Canmore offering a 7-course chef’s tasting. It was pure heaven. Every dish was thoughtful, flavour-packed and beautifully explained. Highly recommend for a special night out.
What I packed or prepped:
Today was one of those days you pack for everything: raincoat, thermal layers, gloves, beanie, bear spray, protein snacks, emergency kit, and even hiking poles, though I didn’t use them this time!
Movement:
We nailed it — a steep 12km return hike with uncertain weather, changing terrain and moments that pushed us mentally and physically. By the time we got back to the car, we were knackered but proud.
Mindset moment:
It’s funny how quickly fear can creep in: a footprint in the mud, a quiet trail, a gut feeling. It reminded me how much of what holds us back comes from what ifs, and how much courage it takes to make a decision, pivot, then re-decide again. There’s power in trusting your instincts and your environment. We stayed aware, reassessed, and still moved forward — and that hike turned into a core memory. Some of the best moments happen just after the “maybe we should turn back” thoughts.
Day 13: Banff, Fairmont Hotel
What we did:
Another wet weather day – ugh! It had snowed overnight, and we woke up to non-stop rain and 4°C temperatures. Not quite the birthday weather we’d hoped for Celene, but we made the most of it!
After breakfast, we wandered the town and took in the cosy alpine vibes before heading to the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel – Canada’s Castle in the Rockies. It’s such a stunning spot to explore, even if you’re not staying there, in fact you can even do a guided heritage tour and afternoon tea that you can book in advance. We wandered the halls, took a few cheeky photos and soaked in the grandeur.
Later in the day, we reunited with our friend Mike, who we met on a Vanlife trip in Norway and who had just returned to Banff from a short work stint in Sydney – such a full-circle moment! We brought him back to ours for hot tub snacks and chats, then got ready for a beautiful birthday dinner at the Fairmont. Highly recommend both the experience and the food — it felt like a real celebration.
Where we ate:
Brunch: We tried Farm & Fire in downtown Banff. I ordered a duck and poached eggs dish — rich, satisfying and the perfect start to a chilly day.
Snacks: At the hot tub we nibbled on our Costco buys: cold cuts, cheeses, beef jerky and chickpea crisps. A makeshift grazing board that hit the spot.
Dinner: We dined at 1888 Chop House at the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. Celene and I shared a steak and a few sides — everything was perfectly done. We wrapped up with a drink at Rundle Bar, which has a fireplace, plush chairs and mountain views. Such a dreamy setting.
What I packed or prepped:
Not much required today — just warm layers, an umbrella and a dry change of clothes in case we got caught in the weather again!
Movement:
The rain definitely slowed us down, but we still got in a fair bit of incidental movement wandering around town and the Fairmont. Some days you just take what you can get — and that’s okay.
Mindset moment:
There’s something to be said for letting go of the pressure to do it all on days like these. The weather wasn’t in our favour, but the day still ended up being full of connection, comfort and celebration. It reminded me how important it is to leave space for slower days, and how nourishment and joy come in many forms — a shared steak, a warm drink, a good friend, and a hot tub in the rain.
Day 14: Kanasakis, Canmore
What we did:
The weather was a lot kinder today, thankfully, but the remnants of the recent snow dump meant our hiking plans still needed some last-minute flexibility. Mike joined us for the day and we started with a hearty breakfast in Canmore before heading to the Tent Ridge trailhead in Kananaskis – Kananaskis Country is sometimes called “Alberta’s best-kept secret” — less busy than Banff, but just as stunning. You do need a Kananaskis Conservation Pass to park or visit this area. It can be purchased online or at most trailheads – we didn’t come across any places that required this pass so I’m not quite sure on locations.
Once we arrived at Tent Ridge trailhead, it was a no-go — there was just too much snow, and I was slipping everywhere in my hiking boots. Such a shame, but safety first.
We pivoted quickly and realised Ha Ling Peak was just down the road. We decided to give it a shot, and started hiking up until the snow got too thick again for me to continue. Mike and Celene pressed on, and I headed back down solo, teaming up with a lovely couple from Chicago who had also made the same decision. They were waiting for a friend and offered great company — even helped me cross a few trickier patches on the descent. These kinds of spontaneous connections really are one of the best parts of travel.
Later we got ready for dinner and met up with Celene’s friend Crystal in Canmore. Another delicious local gem!
Where we ate:
Brunch: We went to The Broken Yolk in Canmore – a great pick! I had a dish with salmon and spinach, poached eggs on half a waffle, and yep… potatoes again! I asked for the hollandaise on the side, as always.
Snacks: We grazed on a few leftover Costco nibbles during the afternoon, no need to overdo it before dinner.
Dinner: Crystal recommended Crazyweed, and it did not disappoint. I ordered a prawn-topped pizza to get in some extra protein. Incredible flavours and such a fun atmosphere.
What I packed or prepped:
Backpack was essential today. I really wish I had used my hiking sticks — the track would’ve been far easier with them. I had layers, bear spray, snacks, water and my raincoat, which all came in handy with the unpredictable weather.
Movement:
Even though we didn’t summit either trail, we still put in a solid effort and got the heart rate up. The incline at Ha Ling is no joke, and I’d absolutely love to come back one day to complete Tent Ridge properly.
Mindset moment:
Today was a beautiful reminder that flexibility is a strength, not a compromise. In the mountains — and in life — the plan can change without notice. But being willing to adapt meant I still had a meaningful hike, connected with new people, and made memories that wouldn’t have existed if I’d pushed on unsafely. Some of the best moments are in the re-routes.
Day 15: Grassi Lakes, Canmore
What we did:
My final full day in Canada — and what a bittersweet feeling. We chose to head out to Grassi Lakes for our last hike. It was nothing too intense, which was perfect given that a lot of the other higher elevation tracks were still snowed out. We had considered paddleboarding at Two Jack Lake, but with the temps staying low, neither of us were too keen to jump into swimwear.
Grassi Lakes was absolutely stunning. If you’re planning to go, I recommend taking the left-hand trail rather than the easy route — it gives you a more spontaneous, nature-immersed hike with better views along the way. And those glacier-blue waters at the top? Unreal.
Afterwards, we headed into Canmore for lunch, wandered around the town, and then drove to Banff to pick up Mike after work. We wandered the shops again (I was on a mission to find Canadian-made slippers for my partner — success at The Trading Post!) and then made our way back to the apartment. Celene had pre-made a delicious lasagne from home, so we warmed it up, made a salad, and had a beautiful last night in to close out the trip.
Where we ate:
Breakfast: We kept it simple with a protein shake to kick off the morning. While Celene jumped on a work call, I took my coffee outside to soak in my final full morning in the mountain air.
Lunch: We went to The Local in Canmore and both ordered fish tacos. Hot tip: I always ask what kind of fish is used — I prefer those higher in nutritional value, and avoid ones like basa where I can.
Dinner: Celene’s homemade lasagne (made ahead and brought from home) was the perfect send-off. No photo, but I had two servings! We added a salad with some leftover Costco staples.
What I packed or prepped:
This was a light hiking day so I didn’t need the full backpack, but you better believe I had bear spray in my hand the whole time. Even on busier tracks, it’s worth having. Funny enough, a few fellow hikers actually commented they were glad we had it too.
Movement:
Grassi Lakes gave us the movement hit we needed. Nothing overly strenuous, but enough incline to elevate the heart rate and enjoy some final moments of nature-fuelled calm. A perfect wind-down trail.
Mindset moment:
Ending the trip with presence felt important. I didn’t want to rush or squeeze more in, I wanted to be in it. Grassi Lakes gave us time to reflect, to move slowly, and to soak in what the past two weeks had really been about: connection, spontaneity, appreciation for our bodies, and how good it feels to step away from the noise. This trip reminded me that movement doesn’t need to be intense, food doesn’t need to be perfect, and memories aren’t made from macros, they’re made in moments.
Day 16: Calgary, Los Angeles – long-haul day and final thoughts
What the day looked like:
Our final morning was an early one. We packed up, cleaned the apartment, and made our way back to Calgary airport. Celene had a 7-hour drive ahead of her to make it back for her son’s elementary school graduation, and I had 5.5 hours to wait before my flight to LA. Plus another 4 hours in transit once I landed — a proper long-haul day.
It’s a good idea for those flying internationally out of Calgary to arrive at least 3 hours early, as customs lines can get long.
Rather than sit around, I intentionally moved my body outside at departure, and through the terminals, stretching my legs and walking as much as I could – I even made friends with a dog who was flying with its owner! Between the two airports, I clocked up over 24,000 steps — not because I had to, but because it felt good to move after such an active trip, and before settling into a 16-hour flight.
Food on the road:
Airport food is never glamorous, but I did my best. I grabbed a bacon & egg roll and a bottle of water from A&W, and later found a protein shake to tie me over. The in-flight food was, honestly, pretty shocking — flipping over the packets and seeing corn syrup and seed oils in what should’ve been basic snacks was a good reminder of why I prioritise real food when I can.
I always aim for protein and fibre where possible, but on travel days I don’t overthink it. I focus on hydration, movement, and keeping things simple.
Mindset moment:
There’s something grounding about airports — that weird pause between what’s just been and what’s to come.
Being solo again gave me space to reflect on the trip: the hikes, the food, the conversations, the laughter, the quiet, the missteps and lessons. Travelling always brings perspective.
I left Canada wide-eyed and grateful. Not just for the scenery or memories, but for the deeper connection I felt to myself, when I leaned into presence, adventure and flexibility.
Exactly what I teach — and continue to learn.
Thanks for following along with my Canadian adventure! I hope it gave you some insight into how food freedom, flexibility and real-life living actually look — even on the road. If it inspired you, helped you shift your mindset or just made you hungry for your next trip, I’d love to know!
Drop me a comment and let me know your favourite Canadian stop, and look around my website or Instagram page for real-world tools, flexible meal plans and support for your next chapter — wherever that might take you.
And, if you love this kid of travel, download my free Benefits of Walking and Movement guide or try my 8-week meal plan to bring this mindset into everyday life.
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